A Man’s Guide to Boots and Shoes

BOYS AND MEN GUIDE TO SHOES AND BOOTS

Caution:      Leather and plane shoes are good for health.

Over seventy years agone, anthropologist theologiser Cressman discovered maybe the world’s oldest footwear in Central Oregon.  The sandals were dated to be ten,000 years recent, and from the images I’ve seen, were created with tortuous weaves that indicated they weren't solely useful, however conjointly fashionable in style.  From our social group days to present, men have probe for and valued footwear that each looked sensible and got the duty done.

Luther Cressman sandals central Oregon rope 

Luther Cressman and therefore the sandals that he discovered in central Oregon.

The goal of this text is to relinquish you an outline of a man’s choices once it involves footwear and justify the way to wear them once.  I’m not progressing to try and sell the thought that you simply would like a combine of shoes for each occasion, however i might wish to expose you to the thought that quality footwear that matches well could be a worthy investment, which the proper shoes for the proper scenario will well elevate your personal vogue and luxury.

Why care regarding your shoes?

A man ought to care regarding his footwear if for no different reason than the {very fact|the actual fact} that it constitutes the very foundation he stands upon.  In a mean day, you’ll ask your shoes to absorb the force of your weight 3000+ times; a poor choice here can lead to not only discomfort but injury one step at a time, especially if you select shoes that inhibit your body’s natural gait and cushioning system.

Andy Dufresne shawshank redemption movie morgan freeman

Andy Dufresne was right about everything, except this: People do notice a man’s shoes.

Then there is the appearance aspect. Separate from the rest of your clothing, shoes are a visual endpoint and receive a disproportional amount of attention; despite covering only 5% of your body they can make-up more than 30% of the visual judgement we make when sizing up a stranger.

Ideally you want to choose footwear that is both functional and stylish–by following these footwear selection principles this goal can be easily achieved.

Four Footwear Rules

1st – Wear the right shoe for the occasion – this is the most common mistake I see men make when it comes to footwear.  Running shoes have a purpose; they protect your feet while running.  Steel toe work boots have a purpose; they protect your feet while working.  And wearing these shoes outside their prescribed function is fine as long as they are still appropriate; however, many of us take this to an extreme and have abandoned the middle ground between formal and ultra-casual.

2nd – Invest in quality – Not every man can afford to spend hundreds of dollars on his shoes; however, many of those who can instead choose to waste money elsewhere and buy new inferior shoes every few years.  This is never a winning strategy, as low quality footwear is held together with glue and made with cheap raw materials such as cardboard and paper that does not age well. You can save money in the long term by buying more expensive shoes that last for decades.

I want to expand on this point just a bit more; to buy quality, many men will have to save and budget for the purchase.  This isn’t a bad thing–in fact, it can instill a respect for the quality of the product and encourage you to take better care of them when purchased.

And don’t forget the thrifting option.  Assuming you can find a pair of quality shoes that fit you from Allen Edmonds, Alden, or another manufacturer, you can send them back and take advantage of their re-crafting and re-soling service.  A new pair of shoes for a fraction of the cost, rebuilt to serve you for 20 years.

3rd – Never sacrifice proper fit and comfort – buy the right shoe size, even if this means paying a bit more and purchasing your shoes at a brick and mortar shop vs. going the tax free/lowest price online route.  Actually, this isn’t a bad deal, especially if you support a local small business that can really give you solid guidance as to what styles are available and show you how to take care of your purchase.

Brannock device patent image measuring feet shoe size 

Use a Brannock device to measure your foot if you’re not sure about your size.

Another fit issue is paying attention to shoe width.  Men with extremely wide or narrow feet learn about this from an early age, but many men who would be better served by just a slightly wider or narrow shoe never discover their perfect size because the normal sizes do an OK job.   I challenge you to take the time to find the right size…..you’d be surprised about what you’ve been missing, especially if you spend quite a bit of time on your feet.  Look for variations in arch support and toe structure as well.

4th – Take care of your shoes – We’ve written about this extensively here at the Art of Manliness.  Learn how to waterproof your shoes in this classic article and then learn how to shine your shoes here.

In addition, rotate through a few pairs to allow them to dry between wearing and ALWAYS use wood shoe trees that will quickly soak up perspiration.  This is especially important for leather shoes, as the interior of a dress shoe has often not gone through the harsh chemical treatment of the upper and is more susceptible to rot.

Common Footwear Terminology

shoe diagram parts of a boot illustration diagram

Sole – This is commonly referred to as the bottom part of the shoe or boot and can be further divided into the outer sole, mid-sole, and insole depending on the type and quality of the shoe being discussed.

Upper – A general term that refers to the part of the shoe above the sole.

Brogueing – a form of ornamentation in which tiny holes are carved into the shoe’s leather.  An important point to remember is that the more decoration on a shoe the less formal it becomes.

Open Lacing – One of the two lacing systems used in oxford shoes, the open lacing system delineates the shoe in question to be a blucher. The shoe’s tongue and vamp (parts of the upper that cover the top of the foot) are cut in one piece with an open throat.

Insole – As mentioned above, a subsection of the general term sole, the inner sole is the layer of the sole upon which the foot rests.  A quality insole can mean the difference between a shoe that will last 5 years and one that will last 25.

Heel – The back portion of the shoe that comes into direct contact with the ground and provides elevation to the foot once the shoe is worn.  Heels area unit usually engineered from a pair of to four items of animal skin referred to as lifts and bolstered with rubber or metal.

Laces – the selection is sometimes spherical or ribbon, with spherical having the advantage of being stronger  and a lot of formal because of their core whereas ribbon laces are available a spread of colours and area unit a lot of elastic and area unit therefore a decent selection for athletic shoes or hiking boots.

group of men operating in shoe-shop late 1800s early decade

Men’s Footwear sort summary

Types Of Dress Shoes

Oxfords area unit lace-up shoes engineered to be worn below a man’s articulatio talocruralis. they're ordinarily divided into balmorals and bluchers thanks to the distinction in their lacing systems.  Balmorals area unit ordinarily said merely as “oxfords,” whereas bluchers area unit said as derbys however seldom oxfords; all of this ends up in confusion naturally. thus for simplicity’s sake, i'll check with balmorals as balmoral oxfords and bluchers as bluchers.

Balmoral oxfords use a closed lacing system and area unit unremarkably titled a lot of merely than bluchers. therefore balmoral oxfords area unit classified because the dressier of the two; they're best worn with suits and formal wear. i counsel each man to have a classic combine of balmoral oxfords to wear together with his 2-piece suit.

Classic English created Oxford Balmoral black 

Classic English created Oxford Balmoral

Bluchers typically are available a way wider vary of designs and colours, and a conservative combine will be worn with a suit and for several men is their go-to combine of shoes to wear with the suits in their wardrobe.  That being aforesaid, bluchers that utilize brogueing, a split toe, or color combos look best with a lot of casual consumer goods.

Slip-ons aren't oxfords as they are doing not use laces; on purpose they're less formal although if conservatively styled they will and are worn with suits. However, they are generally more at home with grey flannel trousers and a sport jacket.   Moccasins, monk straps, and tassel loafers are just a few of the more popular options available.  Many of the styles you’ll find in the slip-on category could have been classified below as casual footwear; this just highlights the fact that there are very few hard lines when dividing items like this.  I personally love slip-ons, as they make travel so much easier when you have to go through 6 metal detectors over a 24 hour period.

For a more in-depth overview of men’s dress shoes click here, and for a chart overview of men’s dress shoes click here.

Types Of Casual Footwear

Saddle Shoes – A casual oxford shoe, the saddle shoe is distinctive as a result of it utilizes a layer of animal skin over the instep that is unremarkably a completely different color than the rest of the shoe, therefore classifying it as an off-the-cuff however fashionable selection.

examples of saddle shoes animal skin strap brown pearl Image from The Shoe Buff

Boat Shoes or high Siders – created to be worn on a ship to forestall slippery , they need migrated from the docks of capital of Massachusetts to the wardrobes of men probing for a summer shoe which will be worn while not socks. offered in an exceedingly form of colours, the men’s boat shoe comes in an exceedingly shoe vogue and is simply for heat weather.

sperry topsider boat shoe brown animal skin Laced – significant Sole – the 2 most documented shoes during this class area unit Dr. Martens and Sketchers. starting from $40 to $200, these shoes vary in their build quality however area unit systematically casual in nature thanks to their massive rubber soles and overall significant look. counting on glue and being factory-made with shoddy materials (Dr. Martens rapt the assembly of most of their shoes and boots to China many years ago), these shoes fill a distinct segment however aren't future worth items and area unit best avoided by a person wanting to create a significant wardrobe.  I would say their one redeeming quality is their ability to withstand poor weather conditions, but if that’s your goal, then you should consider a quality pair of boots.

Canvas Shoes – Sneakers come in a wide variety of styles and colors, however the rules of wearing them outside of the gym are universal.  When clean and situation appropriate, they work well with chinos, jeans, and shorts.

black converse all stars canvas shoes top side view

Converse – what more is there to say about this classic sneaker.

Leather Loafer – separate from the slip-on leather dress loafers above, these slip-on loafers are built with heavier rubber soles and more casual uppers to include leather imitations.  Their styles are wide and range, but the purpose of their construction is to fill the void between canvas shoes and dress shoes while maximizing comfort at a value price.  In the US I feel the manufacturer Clark’s does an admirable job putting out a solid shoe; outside the US, look for Ecco and their wide range of casual and comfortable footwear.

leather slip on loafer brown no lacesSandals – One of man’s earliest forms of footwear, sandals continue to serve as a solid choice for protecting the bottom of our feet while allowing maximum air circulation to the upper portion.

Clogs, Flip Flops, and Crocs –  I was told that if you can’t say something nice, don’t say anything at all.  So I am silent.

Athletic Shoes

Running shoes, basketball shoes, tennis shoes–you would think the occasions for which these were meant to be worn would be clear.  Yet we persist in wearing our white running shoes everywhere, declaring it a right because they are comfortable.  I counter this argument by saying that many of us are too lazy to take the time to think outside the box and select a casual shoe that looks sharp and is comfortable. They definitely exist.

Types Of Boots

Work Boots – There’s a cobbler I use in Green Bay whose shelves are lined with two types of footwear.  High end dress shoes that need to be conditioned and shined, and work boots that have gone through a beating and need new soles.  Like a pick-up truck that works hard and simply needs an oil change and new tires, quality work boots last forever and help you get the job done. Any man that works 14 hour days in construction learns at an early age that spending a bit more for quality boots is an investment in how his body will feel that weekend.  And as mentioned before, solidly built work boots can be re-soled, while cheap boots that are made with glue and inferior materials not only fail under heavy usage but cannot be fixed as they were designed to be disposable.

Caterpillar 2nd Shift Steel Toe work Boot

Caterpillar makes an excellent work boot – notice the stitched sole.

Hiking Boots – Hiking boots are designed to support the ankles, provide cushion, and protect from the elements, while still being light enough to not impede stamina.  Boots that meet all this criteria are an outdoorsman’s delight; those that fail can turn a trip into a painful lesson of why quality matters.

Western Boots – Growing up in West Texas, I have a special place in my heart for western boots.  Functionally, they serve the purpose of keeping a man in his saddle, protecting him from the terrain, and if taken care of, they can last as long as his horse.  But that’s the issue–most of us don’t require this functionality and wrestle with the issue of whether or not we deserve to wear something so idealized by our culture.

Personally I feel a man can pull off western boots without being a cowboy – the key is being comfortable and confident in them.  And avoid flashy or brightly colored boots unless they have a special meaning or you crafted them yourself, otherwise you’ll look like a clown.

Lucchese Cowboy stonewashed lizard western boots

Lucchese makes an excellent boot. Just make sure to get two of them.

Dress Boots – This includes a wide variety of styles and manufacturers, from Red Wing’s Heritage collection to the classic Chelsea made famous by the Beatles.  While many are built to withstand the rigors of hiking and working, they are more often than not worn for their style, not their function.

wolverine 1000 mile work boot maroon color 

The Wolverine 1,000 mile boot. Made in the USA in a 300 step process. Brett’s an owner and a big fan.

A Note on Custom Made Shoes

If you’ve made it this far into the article, I take it you like to read about shoes.  So let’s turn it up a notch and briefly discuss the option of bespoke boots and shoes.  It’s not for every man, but I feel a discussion on footwear would be incomplete without it.

All shoes used to be custom; mass manufactured footwear that’s comfortable is a modern luxury.  Crafted one at a time, a man’s status (much more than today) was determined by what he could afford to wear on his feet.   Today the art of hand making footwear rests with a small number of artisans scattered across the globe.

First, when commissioning a pair of bespoke shoes be prepared to pay.  Handcrafted shoes are expensive because modern artisans only use the finest materials, there are very few of them that do this type of work, and it’s very time intensive.  And believe it or not, demand is unbelievably high–waitlists of a pair of to three years area unit not uncommon.

Once the method begins, a customized maker can 1st fastidiously examine your foot.  He’ll see you on the simplest vogue and style for your body and skilled desires, then build lasts (replicas of your feet) that the shoe are going to be engineered around.

After this, the craftsman performs his magic.  He’ll fastidiously choose the proper materials then cut the innersole, prepare the higher, prepare then sew the welt, sole the shoe, attach the cork filling and insert a steel shank spring, sew on the sole, build the heel, then end everything with final shaping and ornamentation.

This intensive method takes most shoemakers roughly ten weeks for one combine.  If you’re probing for an excellent scan on the topic, pick-up the book oversewn Shoes for Men.  If you’re staring at custom shoes, contemplate speaking with Steven over at Leffot. however take care regarding reading his men’s shoe blog: you may get sucked sure hours.

custom created button dress shoes boots

Footwear like this needs to be created for you……..Men Guide to Boots and Shoes