history of men's fashion

A BRIEF HISTORY OF MEN’S FASHION

We’ve same it time and time once more, menswear is dominated by history and tradition. every one in menswear (designer, stylist, editor, etc) has taken inspiration from the past at just the once or another. And no era has been unnoted.

Therefore, as we have a tendency to still explore the foundations of non-public vogue via our Menswear one zero one articles, i believed we’d take a fast relive at the last hundred-or-so years in men’s fashion. maybe this may give to a small degree insight or context on however menswear shifts, and a lot of significantly, however we are able to create informed  selections once it involves shopping for covering and developing personal vogue.

LATE 1800S: LAST OF THE VICTORIANS

As the nineteenth century came to AN finish men were slowly shaking-off the Victorian influence that still had them carrying tophats, frock coats, and pocket watches whereas carrying walking sticks. this might appear to be AN elaborate and restrictive thanks to dress, however it absolutely was an enormous step within the right direction considering the Georgian amount that proceeded it had men carrying feathers, panty hose, and high heels. And you thought you were a “dandy”.

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1900S: TALL, LONG & LEAN

As we have a tendency to affected into the decennium men’s covering was preponderantly utilitarian and rather unimaginative. The long, lean, and athletic silhouette of the late Nineties persisted, and tall, stiff collars characterize the amount. three-piece suits consisting of a coat with matching garment and trousers were worn, as were matching coat and garment with different trousers, or matching coat and trousers with different garment. Sounds acquainted, right? Trousers were shorter than before, usually had “turn-ups” or “cuffs“, and were wrinkled front and back victimization the newly-invented home appliance. 

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1920S – BROADENING HORIZONS

After the war (which introduced various classic menswear styles that ar still used nowadays, like trench coats and cargos), business began to pick-up and Americans had extra money. extra money allowed them to travel a lot of and broaden their horizons culturally and esthetically. several crossed the Atlantic to European nation and France. Naturally they came back with suitcases choked with the most recent fashions being worn overseas.

Of all the countries, European nation had the foremost influence on yank menswear. within the Twenties yank school students began putt their own spin on items being worn at the legendary university, as well as button-down shirts, natural-shouldered jackets, army unit ties, and colourful argyle socks. what is more, the blue blood of Wales, UN agency later became the Duke of Windsor, was the world’s most vital and cogent menswear figure. Through newsreels, newspapers, and magazines the elegant Prince became the first international “style icon” and became widely known and renowned for his impeccable taste in clothing. He was a legitimate trendsetter for every day people and it was the first time in history that clothing advertisers would use a celebrity face to sell clothing, shamelessly plugging their items “as worn by the Prince”.

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1930S: THE HEIGHT OF ELEGANCE

The begining of the 1930s saw the great depression. Although the average man couldn’t afford to partake in the world of fashion, many often enjoyed observing the style choices of those who could. Hollywood films on the Silver Screen became a beacon for hope for the working class man living in this era. Men and women alike looked with admiration and aspiration to elegantly dressed stars like Fred Astaire, Clark Gabel, Cary Grant, and Gary Cooper.

In the 1930s the American taste level was at its peak, rivaling that of any European country. It was a time when American men took pride in the clothing they wore and the image they projected. It was a time when men dressed by certain codes of conduct and etiquette. The “menswear rules”, which we often reference, were written in this period.

“For the first time American men realized that clothing should not be worn to hide the natural lines of the body, but, rather, to conform to them, thereby enhancing he male physique. At the same time, clothes should not be too obvious. Instead, they had to become part of the man who was wearing them. The idea of clothing was not to set the man apart (as had been the case for centuries, when kings and noblemen dressed primarily to accomplish just that) but to allow him to be an individual among individuals…. Americans had finally leanred that the goal of good clothing was to flatter rather than be conspicuous.” – Alan Flusser

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1940S: THE BIRTH OF READY-TO-WEAR

With the end of World War II, American men strayed from the high standards and basic principles of fine dress established in the thirties. Part of this was changes in the workforce and the loss of formality in everyday life. With lower demand, the price of custom tailoring rose, which allowed for the mass production of menswear to takeover as the everyday norm. This period saw the introduction of mass produced ready-to-wear clothing in America, by some brands that are still selling us clothing today.

There were positives and negatives to these new methods of mass production. On the one hand, basic clothing was cheaper and more accessible than ever. On the opposite hand, there was less variety in the styles being offered, and, much worse, these major clothing manufacturers realized (just like the automobile manufacturers) that they could stimulate sales by offering changes in styles every year, or

even every season. This began the “trend cycle” in retail, which was created by clothing manufacturers to make more money and propagated by the magazine industry, also to make more money. 

Ultimately this marketing strategy pushed the consumer further and further away from the “ideals of classical dress” established in the 1930s, which were all about choosing long-term pieces that best flatter the body. Instead the goal of clothiers became to confuse and pressure the consumer to continually “re-invent himself” by purchasing “new styles” that are “in fashion”. More sales, regardless of the longevity or aesthetic of the look.

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1950S: THE AGE OF CONFORMITY

The Nineteen Fifties was the Age of Conformity. Young men strolling back from the military were anxious to suit right in with the institution. Fitting in and “looking the part” meant taking over the league look, that was dominating menswear. Individuality fashionable  of covering was AN afterthought. The goal was to seem “part of the club”, during a cubic  sack suit, oxford shirt, rep tie, and loafers. This was another huge boost for mass off-the-shelf makers UN agency fain sold  identical ill-fitting tweed jackets to any young man making an attempt to seem sensible and employable.

Furthermore, the Nineteen Fifties saw the introduction of artificial materials like textile and nylon. This was another boost to rock bottom line for the covering makers UN agency may currently save considerably on the value of material, whereas manufacturing a garment that was thought to be “more sturdy and best to wash”. because it seems, artificial fabric makes for horrible menswear clothes, particularly in textile. Natural fibers ar perpetually higher. 

Aesthetically the amount was dominated by conservative gray suits and minimalist accessories (hat, pocket sq., cigarette, and martini) for concerning everybody.

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1960S: REBELLION & INDIVIDUALITY

The Nineteen Sixties were a decade of unrest and rebellion against the institution and therefore the ideology that was celebrated within the Nineteen Fifties. covering mirrored this new angle, particularly with the youth UN agency were a lot of involved with expressive style and individuality than classical dressing by the “rulebook”. The covering business caught on to the current new wave with the youth, and offered a embarrassment of designs. Stores carried a lot of selection than ever. it absolutely was approaching AN “anything goes” amount, wherever usually the issue that mattered the foremost wasn't what you wore, however what you didn’t wear. 

The was additionally the primary time that fathers began trying to their sons for recommendation. the primary time in history that adult men wished to seem young and care-free. This trend, of course, solely took United States additional aloof from the principles of class that were established within the Nineteen Thirties.

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1970S: dance hall FUNK

The early Seventies were a continuation lately Nineteen Sixties crusader rebel fashion. For men this significantly meant bell bottom jeans, hand dye shirts, and military surplus covering. the foremost well-liked accessories of the first Seventies for men were home-brewed, with necklaces, headbands, and bracelets being made up of all-natural materials like wood, hemp, and animal skin. 

Men began to wear trendy three-piece suits (which became on the market during a unclear form of colors) that were characterised by wide lapels, wide legged  or increasing trousers, and high-rise waistcoats. Neckties became wider and bolder, and shirt collars became long and pointed because the “disco funk” was all the trend.

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1980S: POWER DRESSING

In the Eighties things got to a small degree a lot of serious, with broad shoulders framing power ties and suspenders. daring colours and graphic patterns sent a brand new national confidence and businessmen took to power dressing with a stress on dearly-won covering and gaudy accessories. 

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1990S: saggy BUSINESS CASUAL 

This may be maybe the worst-dressed decade of all. the style within the Nineteen Nineties was the genesis of a sweeping shift within the western world: the start of the adoption of tattoos and body piercings. This brought back the indifferent, anti-conformist approach to fashion, resulting in the popularization of the casual stylish look; this enclosed T-shirts, distressed jeans, outsized hoodies, and trainers. “Business Casual” additionally enters the lexicon as company offices typically abate formal, ultimately inflicting the suit to urge larger and uglier than ever.

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2000S: HIP-HOP & EUROPEAN trade

Menswear within the new millennium was influenced primarily by hip-hop culture for the youth, and European “slim fit” trade for the older gents. The suit finally began to slenderize, because the “European cut” became extremely asked for in America, to the purpose wherever eventually it became onerous to seek out stores that didn’t carry “slim fit”. the net additionally created it easier for men to be told regarding menswear and share their opinions with fellow vogue enthusiasts. we have a tendency to saw the birth of the primary menswear blogs, with this one beginning in 2009.

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2010S: THE EVOLUTION of favor on-line

The 2010s have brought United States the evolution of the “fashion star”. Fashion bloggers became thought. On the one hand, suddenly fashion is within the hands of the folks, manufacturing a bigger form of designs, reviews, and opinions than ever before. On the other hand, those being watched ar naturally inspired to do tougher and tougher to face out from the group. “Peacocking” became a menswear term within the early a part of the last decade for “trying too hard”, though men have typically become a lot of confortable with refined, tasteful styling. 

This period additionally marked the widespread acceptance of on-line searching. vogue enthusiasts from everywhere the planet currently have access to a lot of brands than ever, from the convenience of their homes. the net additionally allowed for a lot of start-up brands than ever, marketed victimization social media and funded with on-line resources like kick-starter. In a way, we’re beginning to see the re-surgence of the little complete, fueled  by the facility of the net and therefore the want for shoppers to possess one thing restricted and exclusive. the most effective half is, middle men are becoming cut-out daily. shops, who’s business is marking-up merchandise that have already been illegible by the middleman, ar losing their stranglehold on the market as designers currently have a ascendable answer to sell their merchandise on to their shoppers.

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Ultimately my hope for the longer term of menswear is that we are able to retreat to to the ideals of classic dress established within the Nineteen Thirties, and step by step add personal influences from there. Its starts with understanding that there's one vogue that's best suited to every of us…our bodies, our lifestyles, our personalities, etc. certain there's lots of variation among that one vogue, however it shouldn’t need getting a brand new wardrobe each season, however rather adding superior things to a life assortment of gorgeous items that properly gift, and represent, the wearer. At Articles of favor we have a tendency to preach quality over amount and creating thoughtful purchases to make a properly curated wardrobe that may last the check of your time.

Thanks, as always, for reading. 

Yours fashionable ,